Ever since our daughter and her husband moved to Minnesota for school (Go UofM Gophers!!), we have been hankering and planning a nice long driving trip through some of the iconic cities of the Midwest. We wanted to visit cities that were new to us, and see the four Great Lakes that we haven't visited previously. We'd seen Lake Ontario once upon a time, when we visited Toronto over 30 years ago. We are so happy we made this trip.
First stop... Kansas City, Missouri!
Our stay at the Westin Kansas City was lovely. This location is easily navigated by car, and near public transportation if that's your game.
What did we love in Kansas City, you ask?
The Arabia Steamboat Museum is a privately owned museum showcasing the remnants (and there are hundreds) from the Arabia, a steamboat sunk in 1856, and recovered in the mid 1980's. It is a lovingly curated (air-conditioned) museum worth about 2 hours of your time, located at 400 Grand Boulevard and open every single day of the week. This museum is adjacent to the City Market area where you will find eats and drinks and snacks and local wares for purchase.
The Negro Leagues Baseball Museum & American Jazz Museum are entwined in the same building at 1616 E. 18th Street in the old downtown area of Kansas City.
Both of these museums were very interesting and well worth your time. With videos, and musical selections, you could spend anywhere from 1-4 hours in the Jazz Museum. There were so many great excerpts from Charlie Parker, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, Hootie McShann, and a slew of other jazz legends.
And just opposite, there's the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum featuring the history of the Negro Leagues in America, along with personal stories of strife and racism. We spent about 90 minutes here, but you could easily extend your time here.
I love a good cemetery and the Union Cemetery was no disappointment to me at all. It is the largest and oldest public cemetery in Kansas City, founded in 1857. Veterans from the Civil War to the present are buried here, along with politicians, civil rights leaders, and ordinary folks too.
And we were off to Joe's BBQ, the highlight of our Kansas City experience.
The line can sometimes extend an hour or more outside and down around the old gas station building, but we lucked out and waited less than 15 minutes. Timing is everything. Joe's sauces are famous around these parts, and we agreed wholeheartedly, devouring ribs, sausage, and incredibly yummy side dishes. If we ever get to Kansas City again, we're heading straight to Joe's and waiting for another great meal. Joe's is at 3002 W. 47th Avenue and Mondays between 1pm and 3pm seem less crowded to us!
We also enjoyed the 801 Chophouse in Kansas City - we just had to have bbq, beer, and steaks while visiting. This steakhouse was old-school booths with wood and dim lighting. The service was genteel and friendly, so helpful and the food was amazing. The tomatoes on my salad were the sweetest, juiciest, most delicious little red gems ever. Marzano, our wait staff mentioned, but not like any I've ever had before. The steaks were wonderful, and the chocolate layer cake was moist and rich. Sometimes desserts aren't that popular at high end restaurants, but this one was perfection.
Boulevard Brewing!! We couldn't wait to sample here and it was fabulous. Check out their beer menu any day of the week and enjoy the deliciousness that is the finest beer in all of Missouri.
Boulevard Brewing is at 2534 Madison Avenue in Kansas City.
We visited on a fairly humid weekend, but set out to walking up to the World War I Museum, directly across the park from our hotel.
The highly acclaimed World War I Museum at 2 Memorial Drive in Kansas City showcases memorabilia from the Great War - everything from films, photography, and artillery to tanks, clothing, and artwork. We learned so much here because (as you may or may not know) our public education didn't touch too much on World War I, so we were absolutely fascinated.
This museum requires about 2-3 hours of your time and is closed on Mondays.
Our next stop was Minneapolis, Minnesota to visit our girl and her hubby.
Now, if I skip out on describing something like a hotel or eatery, it's not for lack of lodging or food, just that it may have been something not worth mentioning. Like our hotel in Minneapolis... enough said.
What did we love in Minneapolis, you ask?
Oh my gosh, so so so much.
The Black Walnut Bakery for yummy croissants and mediocre hot cocoa.
The Lyndale Rose Garden for an exceptional display of blooming roses and other gorgeous flowers.
Revival for the best Fried Chicken of my entire life and those hush puppies... ah so good.
Indeed Brewing Company - great beer, great vibe, great company & lovely conversation.
A wonderful evening game at Target Stadium where the Twins knocked the Brewers on their butts!
A lovely drive through St. Paul and along the Mississippi River in the rain.
Minnesota State Capitol
Cathedral of St Paul, Minnesota
The Mighty Mo!
The Great Minnesota Get-Together (or State Fair as some might name it.)
Loved every minute of this bucket-list visit with the most gorgeous horses, goats, sheep, and cattle ever! We were able to view the Best in Show for all the bunny rabbits. Loved it.
And the food... where to start? My faves were the Sweet Martha's Cookie Jar Cookies, the Australian Fried Potatoes, the fresh corn-on-the-cob, and the terrific beer selection on a fairly warm day.
My State Fair Pals! 
This chick's a butterfly magnet! 
Linus & Friends
We love Minneapolis and can't wait to get back real soon.
On to Duluth, Minnesota - the absolute BIGGEST surprise of the entire trip.
We planned this stop based on pictures from a one-day winter visit our kids took. It looked pretty, but we were gob-smacked by the beauty of this Lake Superior vista.
I did love the Christmas trees everywhere we wandered. No my darling daughter says they just call them 'trees' throughout the Midwest, but to me they will always be Christmas trees!!!
Duluth is a darling small town with lovely walking and biking trails around the lake, loads of good beer, delicious smoked fish, and incredible vegan ice cream!!
We loved...
The Aerial Lift Bridge - not too many of those around. This bridge lifts the entire center up and down at regular intervals when tall boats/ships are waiting to pass beneath. It is a really incredible sight to see.
The Clayton Jackson McGhie Memorial at 222 E. Superior Street magnifies and memorializes the racial turmoil and divide to which many of us have become numb in this country.
"The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing." ~ Albert Einstein
We truly enjoyed the Northern Waters Smokehouse - located at 394 S. Lake Avenue #106 with the most delicious smoked whitefish, smoked salmon, and lovely patio or take-away options.
Love Creamery can be deliciously found at 1908 W. Superior Street - Just Yummy. And creamy. And vegan options to boot. Thank you!
Door County has been on my bucket list for a good long time. I read a few books about 20 years ago that highlighted this gorgeous area. I had to see it for myself and luckily Jeff was dragged along in my planning and on this adventure. Door County was darling and we found little shops and markets along the way, a few places to wander, and friendly Wisconsin neighbors.
But back a pace - I can't forget to put into print the
VERY BEST COCOA of our entire trip.
A pit stop in Chippewa Falls (to look for Jack's relatives - ha!) and no falls in sight, either.
Bridge Street Brew at 114 N. Bridge Street has you covered.
If their coffee is any better than their cocoa I wouldn't believe it.
Their muffins - the lightest, fluffiest, sweetest little bits of yum ever.
And sidebar - the downtown post office was darling too.
Headed into Sturgeon Bay, we passed a few of the Belgian Chapels that were placed as roadside prayer booths over the last hundred years or so. We found a few.
We stayed at the most darling, absolutely idyllic Bed & Breakfast:
The Chanticleer House at 4072 Cherry Road - a cozy little respite and a sheep farm too.
The highlight for us in this area was Al Johnson's Restaurant in Sister Bay.
Goats. On. The. Roof.
Our lunch was exceptional here. Truly absolutely delicious. I expected kitsch. I got kitsch and so much more. Their herring plate was the best herring we have ever had and it went superbly with every single item on the plate - sour cream, lemon, toasty crackers, tomatoes, capers & pickles. Oh my.
It could be top ten meals of my entire life - no joke.
Door County was beautiful - sunsets and lake views and trails to wander.
Another huge surprise for us was our pitstop in Beloit, Wisconsin on our way to Chicago.
Beloit Eastlawn Cemetery is the final resting place for Jeff's parents and we wanted to pay them a quick visit and see the absolutely gorgeous cemetery where they are buried.
Our pleasant lunch spot was G-Five Brewing Company where we sampled
Every. Single. Beer. on Tap.
No kidding - this place had a terrific vibe, friendly server, and really fabulous beer.
G-Five is easy to find at 1895 Gateway Blvd in Beloit, Wisconsin.
I'd stop in here again, maybe even find a place to spend the night.
Next Stop - Chicago, Illinois!
We stayed at the Sheraton Grand on Water Street and it was the perfect location for our meanderings in this vibrant city. It's close to Lake Michigan (fireworks on Wednesday and Saturday nights) and walking distance to everything and anything you could want to see in Chicago.
What did we Love in Chicago?
The Lakeshore Skyline
Millenium Park was a splendid walk with loads of green spaces and a beautiful rose garden.
I could not get over how green and lush this park is amidst the skyscrapers of the city.
The Field Museum is a very special place with all types of natural history exhibits including the
"Ghost & the Darkness" from Africa and the bones of "Sue, the T-Rex".
We loved seeing everything there was to see here, and spent almost 4 hours wandering.
The Field Museum is located at 1400 S. Lakeshore Drive and is open every day of the week.
The Art Institute of Chicago has some of the most beautiful pieces of Impressionist Art in this world, and is very easy to navigate. Another museum well worth a couple hours of your time if you love art. The Art Institute of Chicago is located at 111 S. Michigan Drive and is
Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Just down the way from the Art Institute of Chicago you'll find Relish Hot Dogs. This little corner stand has a rich following and the line is proof positive that the dogs are delicious. We waited about 20 minutes and didn't mind one bit once we tried those yummy
Chicago dogs - smothered in celery salt, mustard, and pickle relish. The sugary lemonade was a true treat as well, plus there is a little park nearby to sit and nosh away - sunshine or shade, your choice.
We had to stop into Fanny Mae for a chocolate bite, because it was Jeff's grandma's favorite candy. Their chocolate mint melt-aways are delectably creamy and delicious.
This is us at the tippy top of the Willis Tower - Their skydeck is a mere 108 floors above the streets of Chicago and I only felt a little swerve as we posed on the clear floor.
The Willis Tower is located at 233 S. Wacker Drive and is open all week long for your viewing pleasure, day or night!!
We were happy to sample the goods at Goose Island Taproom located at 1800 W. Fulton Street. The options here were fabulous and the service was gracious and friendly.
One of highlights for me, and one of the things I was looking forward to on this trip was a visit to
The Girl & The Goat by Stephanie Izard.
We have watched Chef Izard on Food Network TV for years now and couldn't wait to sample
the menu that she has created.
Note to All: We Loved It!!!
The food was incredibly unique and flavorful, especially the cornbread with blackberries & jalapenos.
Our whole branzino was also fabulous and the cocktails were perfection.
Service was friendly, relaxed, helpful, and timely. I couldn't have asked for a better dinner in Chicago.
Keep it coming.... and we're off to Grand Rapids, Michigan!
On our way to Grand Rapids, we stopped in Kalamazoo to grab a bite & a beer at
Bell's Eccentric Cafe & Brewery.
Oh My Land - their smashburgers were scrumptious! I can't say enough good things about the decor, the service, the little store next door, the beer, and those burgers! Stop in for a lovely lunch or dinner ~ you'll find them at 355 E. Kalamazoo in downtown Kalamazoo, Michigan.
Our stay in Grand Rapids was brief but we made the most of it, staying at a beautiful JR Marriott right on the river.
We visited the Gerald Ford Museum and learned a lot about former President Gerald Ford.
The museum is easy to wander through and will take up no more than 2 hours of your time.
President Ford and his wife, Betty are both buried on the grounds of this museum.
We also stopped in to Founder's for a few sips of some of our favorite beers - no pictures, sadly but you can wander into this hip local spot at 235 Grandville SW. And believe me, you'll be happy you visited here, rather than their Detroit location. I won't say any more than that.
Next stop - Cleveland, Ohio!
Having never been to downtown Cleveland, I had no expectations whatsoever. Our Renaissance hotel had probably the best view of any hotel we stayed at during our trip.
We could spy Lake Erie in the distance and the setting sun made for some true beauty. Whilst we were there, an Air Show was making its presence known and we were able to enjoy great viewing from the comfort of our hotel room.
My favorite beers of the trip may have been from Southern Tier Brewery in downtown Cleveland. We were lucky that they were open - because just about nothing else is open here on Sunday or Monday evenings. Their Pum-King beer is a new all-time fave for me.
Cleveland had an easy walkability and we enjoyed the public art sculptures very much.
My favorite stop in Cleveland (and the real reason for adding it to our trip) was the
Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. The exhibits, the displays, the music, the concert footage, the vibe ~ all as you would hope to see and hear and feel. I loved every single floor of this 5-story museum. Guests may even participate in a garage band, playing drums, guitar, or piano or singing their hearts out.
I did not.
But I loved this museum located at 1100 E. 9th Street in Cleveland, right on Lake Erie.
We also made it to a Cleveland (future Guardians) baseball game. We saw the Twins again, and again they bested their opponent. We are some kind of magnet for them. Huzzah!
Our last stop is Detroit, Michigan where
Lake Huron completed our Great Lakes list.
What did we love about Detroit?
There was a lot to love in Detroit - especially the fact that we could see Canada just across the river.
We saw lighthouses too - more here than anywhere else on the entire trip.
We biked up the Detroit River to Belle Isle and around - what a glorious gorgeous day!!
We pedaled through historic Elmwood Cemetery that was filled with Canadian Geese and I thought it peaceful and beautiful at the same time.
We drove up to Port Huron and had a wonderful tour of the Peche Lighthouse there - here's a peek out the window from way up high. This is one of my favorite moments of the entire trip. It was lovely up there with the breeze at the mouth of Lake Huron.
We sat outside and enjoyed our lunch of fresh fish and another great view of Canada.
When this close to Canada, you gotta have Canadian beer, and we did!
One of my favorite stops in Detroit was the Charles Wright Museum of African-American History. This wonderful museum highlights the history of African-Americans from their arrival here in North America to the present. It was perfectly curated, interesting, and highly educational. You can visit this museum at 315 E. Warren Avenue, right near the Detroit Institute of Art - our next stop on this trip.
Sadly, the Motown Museum was closed, but this little exhibit was a highlight for me.
The Detroit Institute of Art, located at 5200 Woodward Avenue was magnificent. I love museums. I love art museums. I absolutely adored this art museum. The layout was easy to navigate, the art within was varied and beautiful, the cafe was delicious. But... the
Diego Rivera Mural Room was unbelievable. I was in Heaven seeing this great artwork.
Seriously amazing.
This pair of lovebirds was my favorite sculpture in this museum. So beautiful.
We ate well in Detroit - snacked all over, had grocery snacks from the Eastern Market, stopped in for hot cocoa here and there, but our favorite meal was at
Roast, by Michael Symon in the lobby of Westin-Book Hotel.
Dinner was as delicious as 801 Chophouse in Kansas City and the service was even more impeccable. Our cocktails were amazing, and the steaks were just mouth-watering delicious.
I would eat here again in a heartbeat.
YUM.
What I learned on this trip...
The Midwest is very different from the Southwest and the West Coast.
People are friendly the food is homey.
It's a bit more spread out here, rather than California and the West.
There is corn growing everywhere. And when I say everywhere, I mean everywhere.
We didn't go but a few hours before we'd see acres and acres of corn.
From Kansas thru Iowa, to Minnesota, Wisconsin, Ohio, and Michigan.
We drank great beer, had great conversations, ate delicious food, and saw 4 Great Lakes.
The worst drivers are in Michigan, hands down - the most aggressive anywhere we drove.
But the people we met in Michigan - some of the friendliest.
Go Figure.
We believe that diversity makes us stronger and we'll not stop believing it no matter where we go.
Until next time,
Deb :)
