Wednesday, June 22, 2011

And Finally.... to NOLA!!!

Leaving Jackson, Mississippi and heading south towards New Orleans, Louisiana. Like I've said before, this is all new to us. We never got a chance to visit NOLA before Hurrican Katrina so we won't know the differences before... and after. Our plans were set and our minds ready as we headed first to Abita Springs in Louisiana, home to Abita Brewing Company. Oh my! Abita Springs is the cutest little town and I would go back to visit in a heartbeat. We lunched at the Abita Brewing Company and were delighted with our meal. Delicious po'boy sandwiches with catfish and shrimp... wonderful salads, and great beer. We were on a time-constraint needing to be at the brewery by 2:00pm sharp.


Our waitress could not have been more helpful. We told her where we were headed and she made sure we got to our destination on time. Very gracious - thank you!! The Abita Brewing Company "tour" consists of the opening of their beer taps, followed by a brief (15 minute) tour and more beer at the taps. You pour it yourself for almost one straight hour of enjoyable drinking. This dynamic little brewery is environmentally friendly, super-green, and uber-friendly. Check them out at http://www.abita.com/.

Everything was crisp, cold, delicious. You can find some of their beers at places like BevMo or Wine and More. Their Abbey Ale is undeniably one of the best beers ever. But PLEASE... have a designated driver sampling their oh-so-delicious root beer. That was me by the way. Somebody had to be sober enough to attack the 24 mile causeway across Lake Ponchartrain. Which by the way is a scary piece of highway. It bumps along "floating" over the lake and you can't see any land for miles and miles. Very eerie indeed, especially with my crazy family. Into New Orleans we finally tumble and it's still hot and humid. Very sticky outside and it will remain so for the next four days. We are used to the dry heat of Arizona and the humidity just sucks the life out of you. Unless you enjoy that feeling of damp underwear all the time! We stayed in another SpringHill Suites and were just as disappointed with this one as the one in Memphis. I hate to complain, I really do. But seriously... our room was not tidied during our stay, towels were not replaced, toilet paper was not brought around again. Breakfast was awful, flies and gnats swarming the food... ick. I'm beginning to wonder is it ALL SpringHill Suites? Is it us? We love Marriott branded hotels, so something is up around here. Suspiciously uncharacteristic of their usual high quality, service, and friendliness. Ah, well. Enough!

We stopped into The Avenue Pub on St. Charles Street for a quick drink and relaxation. It feels like a place that local people may frequent. There were some attractive 20-somethings enjoying themselves while we were there. The downstairs was pretty smoky, but the upstairs patio was brilliant. We watched the sunset as we enjoyed some local charm and a sip or two. The outside patio/balcony is probably a very happening place during Mardi-Gras. I believe the parade wanders right past this fine establishment. Their website is http://www.avenuepub.com/ and will let you in on all their action.


Our first dinner was at Luke, which is on St. Charles and is adjacent to the Hilton Hotel. Visit their website at http://www.lukeneworleans.com/. This little restaurant is owned by John Besh and Oh My Land... what delicious treats are in store for you here! The service was smart and efficient. We were there during happy hour and thoroughly enjoyed their 1/2 price drinks and .50 cent oysters. Yum! We had a large meal of appetizers including their onion tart, a charcuterie plate, grits (To DIE for!) and a wonderful beet salad. Their cocktail confections were amazing - try the Sidecar for sure. I think this may have been one of the best surprises of our entire trip. Try it.

Late night found us at Vaughn's Lounge - a neighborhood bar that was hyped well on Yelp. I don't know that they even have a website though. We were there to see Kermit Ruffins, but he was ill and after a two hour wait we were treated to his replacement, a wonderful jazz quartet. Very good music, loud place though and cheap beer. We all had Coors - the Banquet in old-fashioned cans. Nice stuff.


Next morning found us headed for the National World War II Museum. It was right around the corner from our hotel and we took a few hours to gain a little historical knowledge. The events of World War II are time-lined throughout the building and you wander through the events that you've heard your grandparents speaking of. All of the battles, artifacts, profiles, 1st hand reports, maps, and pictures are there to enlighten you. We were so pleased with this visit and can't recommend it enough to people interested in history. Too bad there was no mention of the Arizona code-talkers though?! But, great job, truly. Their website can be found at http://www.ddaymuseum.org/ and is truly informational.

We sauntered on down the street to another amazing eatery - Cochon Butcher which is just beside Cochon Restaurant. Heavenly stars above, another delectable charcuterie plate with cheese awaits us. Try the pork belly 2/aoli sandwich or the cubano sandwich with delicate and crunchy housemade chips. My mouth is watering at the thought. Oh, and their olives were house cured and delicious too. The Warehouse District is filled with interesting places like this one. Find out more about Cochon at http://www.cochonbutcher.com/.

I love tea. I love afternoon tea, spiced tea, hot tea, icy cold tea, and the ambiance of tea rooms. Luckily we found The Bottom of the Cup Tea Room ahead of time. It was hot outside and walking here from Cochon - we were thirsty. There are enough choices here to make your head spin. Every kind of fruit flavored, herbal, caffeinated, de-caf, etc. are here for the taking. They take their time with your tea. Brewing it, icing it, and allowing you to linger. Whilst... you have your palm read or your cards done. Yes! Erin and I did this and we are so glad we tried it. Not scary at all and I have a new appreciation for my future. Do it at http://www.bottomofthecup.com/ and you won't regret it.


Any time you wander through a city for the first time you are surprised and amazed by all you see. New Orleans is no exception. There is so much to see on the street, in the shops, through the alleys, etcetera. Keep your eyes open here. Bourbon Street is a bit dirty, but the rest of the city is warm, friendly, clean, and delicious.

We couldn't keep ourselves away from Pat O'Brien's for a hurricane (http://www.patobriens.com/)


Brennan's Restaurant for original bananas foster (http://www.brennansneworleans.com/), Cafe du Monde for beignets (http://www.cafedumonde.com/),


and the Central Grocery for original muffaletta sandwiches (http://www.centralgroceryneworleans.com/).


We had to do the touristy stuff, right? We weren't disappointed in any of these areas and loved every minute of these tasty visits.

One of the best things we did was take a bike ride with the Confederacy of Cruisers (http://www.confederacyofcruisers.com/). This enjoyable morning ride with Lara meandered us through the streets and neighborhoods of New Orleans. We saw homes that were tragically involved in Hurricane Katrina; we saw rebuilding efforts; we saw a wonderful charter school for students involved in the arts; and we enjoyed libations at a darling little neighborhood bar. The Bloody Mary's here are phenomenal. I think the bar was named Marie's but I can't swear to it and I didn't write it down. Bah! But take the bike ride - you won't be disappointed. The rate is very economical, the exercise is good for you, and get this... you CAN drink while you ride in the Crescent City. Who'da thunk that? Enjoy yourselves I say.


Just around the park from where we picked up our bikes was a little bakery. Can't remember the name but they had the iciest ginger limeade I've ever had. Sweet, tart, and delicious. This little neighborhood had a few bars and restaurants that were well worth visiting too. Check them out. One other super incredible place we visited was Meltdown Popsicles in the French Quarter. I can't find their website but you can ask anyone where they are, or check out Yelp for more information. This sweet woman makes homestyle popsicles with ingredients like pineapple/basil or strawberry/mint or sweet creamed coffee. Mmmm-mmmmm-mmmm.

Last, but certainly not least we headed over to St. Louis #1 Cemetery for their early morning tour. So interesting. The wall vaults, the huge society tombs, the family tombs, the crumbling burial areas. It was a terrific creepy morning with thunder and lightning approaching.


Off to Parkway Bakery and Tavern for the (seriously) best Po'Boy Sandwiches ever. Delicious meaty gravy and fried shrimp dressed to perfection or catfish or any other number of interesting combinations. This place survivied Hurricane Katrina and continues to serve the lucky inhabitants of NOLA with a damn-good sandwich. If you already live in New Orelans visit them right away at http://www.parkwaybakeryandtavernnola.com/.


Our afternoon on this last day was pleasantly spent at "Laura, a Creole Plantation" just outside of the city. It took about 45 minutes to get here along the river and we are so happy we spent the few hours visiting. Our guide was the owner and we learned things about the Creole lifestyle, the Code Noir, slaves, free people of color, etcetera. I cannot emphasize how lovely this tour was. Don't deny yourself the visit if you have the time. For more information go to http://www.lauraplantation.com/.


New Orleans was filled with historical images, ghosts, eerie sightings, delicious food, wonderfully warm people, oysters, po'boys, beignets, and some of the seediest bars on Bourbon Street. There's something here for everyone and I'm so glad we got a chance to visit.



Now.. get out there and see the world!
Deb :)

Friday, June 17, 2011

Beale Street to the End of the Line, Part #3

On to Jackson, Mississippi!

We have never traveled in this part of the country and were constantly amazed at all we saw as we drove south towards New Orleans. We avoided the area around Natchez because of the flooding, and I was heartily disappointed. I have wanted to visit Vicksburg and see all the antebellum homes in Natchez. Maybe, next time. On our way in we did stop at "Hal & Mal's" for lunch and it was quite good. The service was surprisingly excellent being that it was midway between lunch and dinner. I had the special which was a grouper sandwich, and if you enjoy grouper - this is for you. The kids had the red beans and rice and enjoyed it very much. We all thought that this place served the most well-balanced sweet tea. Not too sweet, not too much tea - just perfect. Hal & Mal's was a nice stop after a long (and humid) drive and I would honestly recommend it to you for lunch or dinner. Their website with menu and directions can be found at http://www.halandmals.com/.

Now... if you are stopping through Jackson... if you are getting married in Jackson... if you live in Jackson... if you want to have afternoon tea in Jackson... if you want to surprise your significant other in Jackson - you must get yourself over to the Fairview Inn. It's just off State Street and Fortification near a very clean and industrious downtown. *By the way, the downtown has some historical and governmental buildings with some very fine architecture. The Fairview is situated within a family neighborhood and is easily the largest structure around. The tall white pillared front entrance is southern, stately, and magnificent. From our welcome to our departure, the feeling was graceful and elegant. The kids shared the "Strawberry Room" and it was a sweet room for three. Lots of strawberries in the fabrics, on the walls, etc. Their room had a jacuzzi bathtub which my daughter said was heavenly. Hubby and I shared the "Dayton Cooper" room with a comfortable king-sized bed and bathroom. Late afternoon found us playing cards in the tea room (dressed in our comfy robes) where we sampled a variety of coffees, teas, sugar cookies, and some pretty delicious pound cake. And when I say "POUND" cake, I probably mean "POUNDS" cake. Ooey, gooey, very tasty. We did not dine in the restaurant but the menu looked very appetizing. I'll try it if I'm ever in the area again. We instead visited a little Irish pub in the area based on a recommendation we had received. I will not forward the same recommendation to you. My advice is to stay away from any Irish pub in Jackson whose name begins with the letter "F." Enough said. The breakfast here at Fairview was a small buffet-style breakfast. On the morning of our departure there were eggs, sausage, biscuits, fresh fruit, oatmeal, and grits. I can't say that this breakfast was the best I've ever had, but the rooms here more than made up for the food. Dinner looked alot better in the dining room last night!  Make haste and go directly to http://www.fairviewinn.com/ to see pictures and learn more about the inn itself.





Take Care,
Deb :)

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

From Beale Street to the End of the Line... Part 2

This world is filled with interesting places and people. I think that travel brings an appreciation and respect for novel beliefs and various cultures. Open-mindedness is a prerequisite for learning and growing, and imperative if our society is to continue. So... get out there and see something new. Try something tasty with unique flavors that you are unaccustomed to. The world is yours to explore, so get going.

Don't you just love the planning aspect of a vacation and something exciting to look forward to? I do! We are people who research our vacations ahead of time in so many different ways. Mostly, we're looking for good food and entertainment. I like to identify driving directions, interesting things we'll see along the side of the road, and places to eat! From Memphis to Clarksdale we followed smaller highways passing teeny tiny towns, older homes, flooded properties, and Blues Trail highway markers. We stopped at a few interesting sites, so if you're interested in this aspect check out http://www.msbluestrail.org/ to figure them all out.

This road trip took us southwards to Clarksdale, Mississippi. The "Crossroads" at Highways 61 and 49... home of the Blues... a unique, interesting, small southern town. First stop -  Abe's BBQ because there was so much good press online. Abe's is located on State Street in Clarskdale right at the intersection where Robert Johnson supposedly sold his soul to the devil to play the guitar. Abe's has been in business since 1924 and the ribs were absolutely as delicious as promised. But... if you're allergic to anchovy (shellfish) or worchestershire you won't be able to enjoy the sauce. And every last thing in this place has sauce on it. Abe's surprised us with their tamales and chile which were divine. But I've had better here in Arizona. Which brings us to my hubby's chili dog sandwich for dinner. Two hot dogs on a burger bun with a slap of chili and cheese. Definitely NOT as good as the ribs. Enjoy the ribs, the bbq pork sandwich and the beans - they are yummy! Take a peek at what Abe's got cookin' at http://www.abesbbq.com/.


We also visited the Delta Blues Museum with plenty of good artifacts including Muddy Waters' cabin. This museum is downtown and easy to find and will only take up an hour or so of your time. If you're a true blues fan, you'll love it. Their website with more information can be found at: http://www.deltabluesmuseum.org/.

Now, there is probably a good bit of nighttime entertainment in downtown Clarksdale but we opted to hang out in our overnight accommodations at the Shack-Up Inn. We were still recuperating from some serious fun in Memphis still and a quiet evening was perfect. Like I said, we are researchers ahead of our trip. We had found Shack-Up Inn online and couldn't wait to stay here. Shack-Up is an old cotton plantation with cabins and shacks scattered about the property. We lodged in "Bill's House" which was a three bedroom, two bath, two story funky and quirky home. We were greeted at check-in by a very friendly employee who gave us the low-down on Shack-Up. There are nights with entertainment, but not the night we were there. Oh, well. But there were fresh donuts at check-in and the following morning from a downtown donut establishment next door to Abe's. (They were already sold out the next morning at 9:00am - yikes!) As we settled in after dinner we began to notice the antiques scattered throughout Bill's House. They literally cover every cabinet, counter, shelf, sill, and table. Yearbooks, bottles, bird cages, kitchen implements, musical memorabilia, masks, trees, a piano and hot tub, etc. everywhere the eye can see and then some. We sat for several hours playing cards and every few minutes would find something new and interesting. It's hard to describe such a place - you've just gotta try it for yourself. Bill's House rents for $250 per night and sleeps 6 very comfortably but you could put an extra 2 on the sofas if need be. Their website can be found at http://www.shackupin.com/ with all kinds of information and pics to satisfy your curiosity. If you find yourself in Clarksdale for whatever reason - make your way to Shack-Up Inn. I heartily reccommend it.


Next up... Jackson, Mississippi and on into NOLA!
Deb :)

Friday, June 10, 2011

Beale Street to the End of the Line... Summer 2011

Oh my goodness, what a trip! Flying into the Little Rock Airport was a breeze and the surrounding areas were lush and green due to all the rain they have recently received. The Mississippi was reportedly higher than normal though we'd never seen it before except from the sky. We had pre-registered for a family van through Budget and arrived at the counter ready to roll. Unfortunately the Budget counter was closed and we were reshuffled to a very long line at the Avis counter. The counter service was quite unfriendly and tried to finagle another $200 from us though we had pre-paid for our adventure. Our van was dirty, and had not been cleaned from the previous renters. There were water bottles and litter scattered throughout. The dash board had about a 1/2" of dust on it. There was no pre-check on the car, no maps, nothing. It served its purpose however so we didn't scuffle over these small issues. I hate to complain, really I do.

Onward... our first stop was a Wal-Mart to scoop up road snacks and drinks. We are not Wal-Mart shoppers on a regular basis as we prefer Target in our neighborhood but when in Rome... right. I gotta tell you though, that Wal-Mart has everything you could possbily want for a road trip. There were dill-pickle potato chips, potted meat, and spicy-nacho-barbecue-orange-habanero-grilled-cheesy flavored puffs. We found water and apples with peanut butter and raspberry fruit-filled Oreos and then got on our way. Zach provided us with his I-Pod filled with blues, jazz, rap, and country music to help us enjoy our journey. Thanks a bunch, Zach! The drive from Little Rock to Memphis was very pretty with small areas of marsh and flooding.

Making our final pass over the Mississippi into Memphis, we were awed by the power and grandeur of the "Big Muddy."

Sorry friends, we didn't see Elvis. Memphis was very quiet on Memorial Day Weekend. We headed straight to Charlie Vergos' Rendezvous on Second Street in downtown Memphis for their renowned ribs. The owners of Rendezvous are of Greek heritage and their menu reflects this distinction. These meaty morsels come with a dry rub and sauce on the side, though the wait staff recommends you dip the ribs in the vinegar at the bottom of your basket. Do it!! By the way, their sauce has worchestershire in it so stay away from that if you're allergic to anchovies like two of us are. Don't miss out on the lamb riblets and the beef brisket either - they are delightful! Find out more about Rendezvous at  http://www.hogsfly.com/.

On to Beale Street - what a party! You can pop in and out of a multitude of bars, clubs, karaoke, pool halls, tons of live music, shops, eateries, and even a Hard Rock Cafe. Silky O'Sullivan's has a Diver's Bucket of Booze that all five of us shared one evening. Miss Polly's has some excellent fried chicken and waffles and pretty inexpensive liquor. Stop into Superior for terrific karaoke (boy can they sing on Beale Street!) and a few shots of Fireball cinnamon whiskey. Delish!! A very open-minded place which we like very much. But our favorite place was just upstairs of the King's Palace in their Absinthe Room. We shot some pool, listened to the jukebox, and watched a small group of twenty-somethings enjoy some absinthe. Now I have never before seen this production with the sugar cubes, the absinthe, and water. I've heard that this stuff will make the walls quiver right in front of your eyes so I didn't imbibe. If you are more adventurous than me... go for it. It's now legal here in the United States, but I'll stick with my Amaretto Sour, thank you very much.

Just a little off Beale Street we amazingly found Ernestine & Hazel's. This little gem of a speak-easy is located on Main Street and every Sunday evening they feature a jazz jam. We were lucky enough to have some really terrific musicians perform for us in this unusual setting. Head over there, order a drink, then go upstairs to the restrooms. Check out the bathroom with the tub (?) and the locked/unlocked doors which used to house.. You guessed it... prostituties. I'm pretty sure it used to be a brothel. It felt haunted but that's just me. I'll try just about anything my kids ask me to do and Zach asked for this place. A real treat and you won't find a website for them either.

Of course we saw the ducks at The Peabody. They are world-famous and we try to see anything that is "world-famous." Get there at least a half hour before they stroll or you'll never see anything. We were up on the mezzanine and still had trouble seeing it all. The bloody-mary cocktails from the bar were nice though.

We enjoyed two incredible breakfasts in Memphis. First up was Cockadoo's on Second Street in downtown Memphis. If you have a hankering for the most incredibly mouth-watering cathead biscuits, sweet potato hash, and stone ground grits - head here for breakfast. Erin had the peanut-butter and blueberry french toast... mmmm. Check them out at http://www.cockadoos.com/. Our second memorable breakfast was at Arcade Restaurant, the longest continuously operating cafe in Memphis. It is just around the corner from the Lorraine Motel, and has survived all kinds of turmoil to remain a hot (and crowded) spot for breakfast. If you love sweet potatoes like I do, you must have their sweet potato pancakes. Breakfasts here are not huge which is nice because food sometimes goes to waste when restaurants overdo it. The Arcade web site can be found at http://www.arcaderestaurant.com/.

We are guided by our guts, Yelp, and the food channel. We weren't disappointed with our dinner at Gus' World Famous Hot & Spicy Chicken. Man, oh man!! This fried chicken was the biggest, juiciest, hottest and spiciest chicken ever. We met our very good friends here to enjoy some of the most picture-perfect chicken we have ever seen. We could not get enough of it. Their lemonade was down-home, as was their sweet tea. The cole slaw was quite good was well. Go ahead and fill up on chicken though because the desserts were forgettable. We visited the Front Street location in Memphis, though there are others. Gus has been featured on Food Network for good reason. There's a wait morning, noon, and night but it's well worth it. Best chicken (besides Lo-Lo's of course) ever. I can't find their website, maybe they don't have one. But you can find more information on Yelp or TripAdvisor or one of those websites.

You can't believe everything you read or agree with it either. You won't agree with me on everything I say and I'm okay with that. I'm just thankful for a reader!! But we tried Huey's for a late-night burger. They reportedly have the best burgers in Memphis. I was not impressed. Give me an In-n-Out burger anyday. Now that's a religious experience for me. Their burgers were okay for a late-night snack but the boys in my family liked the deep-fried burgers at Dyer's better. I didn't go to Dyer's so I'll just have to take their word for it. We heard the rumors about the ageless strained cooking grease, but again... they're just rumors to me. You can try find out more information at either http://www.hueyburger.com/ or  http://www.dyersonbeale.com/. Try them yourself and let me know what you think.

And now... onto our VERY favorite place in Memphis. Alcenia's on Main Street. I am not kidding when I tell you that she has the best food in all of Memphis. Seriously, the BEST food in all of Memphis. For starters we all got a hug and kiss from this sweet woman. Her kiss alone was worth the price of entry! We settled in and started off with the Kool-Aid which is super sweet. The day we visited it was Ghetto-Grape flavor. Shivers. Our family of five ordered the catfish.We couldn't help ourselves. Four of us ordered the fried catfish, but the smartie in the group (me) ordered the baked catfish. Okay, they were both good, but the baked catfish with all of Alcenia's secret seasonings was out of this world. Ask if they have any candied yams when you visit because you will feel as if you have died and gone to yam heaven. The green beans were terrific, and so was the cabbage. My son said that he'd eat cabbage every day if I'd cook it like Alcenia. Well, I just might. I ordered her cookbook and you should too. Don't dilly-dally, just go straight to http://www.alcenias.com/ for more information and a link to her cookbook.

One thing we found interesting everywhere we went was the practice of paying at the counter before you leave. We haven't seen this in awhile in Arizona, and found it to be sometimes refreshing and sometimes frustrating. Refreshing because you know exactly where your credit card has been. Frustrating when there was a long line. I love seeing new things!

Culture in Memphis - truly fascinating and enlightening. We took a few long walks along the river in the morning and it was very nice. Gorgeous homes and condos line the riverwalk and further downtown were some lovely neighborhoods with brick walk-ups and stately homes. Downtown area however ~ sketchy and uninhabited on the weekend. This is certainly no different from many downtown areas and I expect you'd say the same thing if you visited Phoenix. We searched out STAX Museum of Soul Muisc and were not disappointed. This museum is laid out perfectly with just the right amount of information and showpieces. It is housed in an old movie theatre adjacent to a new recording studio/school of arts. I would not hesitate to recommend this to anyone interested in the history of soul music and Memphis itself. A website can be found at http://www.soulsvilleusa.com/. The most interesting piece for me was how race relations were during the heydey of STAX. I love to hear that people can get along in this world. We need more of it. Truly. We also visited the Lorraine Motel - National Civil Rights Museum. This is the site where Martin Luther King, Jr. was shot and it was very emotional. I believe that the museum is a bit overwhelming and you need more than 2 or 3 hours to absorb it all. The museum continues on the other side of the road to the boarding house where James Earl Ray stayed. We truly love to visit places of history and culture and this is something you just shouldn't miss. We found out so much about this area through the museum. The events of the 1960's and race relations of the time are fraught with anger and emotion. The Lorraine Motel was one of the only motels in the area that accepted African-Americans at that time. That it has remained standing at all is a testament to freedom fighters here in the south. Thank God. Visit them at http://www.civilrightsmuseum.org/.



I'm going to finish up with our lodging. We stayed at the Springhill Suites on Main Street. We are die-hard Marriott people and love their hotels. We did not love the Springhill Suites in Memphis. It was hot, humid, unkempt, and the staff was unimpressive. Our room was not serviced for toilet paper, towels, and toiletries. The a/c was not working properly. Most importantly, when we asked for directions, information, suggestions at the front desk or from the valet - NO ONE knew anything. Not where to eat; not where to visit; not where to go. Shameful. Never again.

Next up... from Memphis to Clarksdale and Jackson, Mississippi.

Bye Y'all,
Deb :)