Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Where Cow is King!!

We are the luckiest visitors on the planet! Our good friends, John & Ann-Marie, are living outside Geneva, Switzerland for two years and invited us to come and stay with them for a week. This might be my favorite B & B ever - your hospitality is truly unmatched. Fluffy white towels, a comfy bed, pastries for breakfast, a gorgeous view of Lake Geneva, wine, and photo-sharing every evening. A great big thank you friends - we love you!

Our friends live in Pully, a cute little village on the banks of lake Geneva. We enjoyed walks around the lake, treats at the patisserie, great burgers, and crepes at a local take-away spot. I did love the night we dined at Le Stella with an Italian language menu. Our waiter, Paolo, was from Sardinia and he spoke seven (yes, 7) languages, but not English. So there we were on the French side of Switzerland and the only language we had in common was Spanish. Wow. Food was great though, and I can heartily recommend the pizza and the aubergine roulade. Yum.  

Switzerland is one of the most gorgeous places we have ever seen. Rolling green hills dotted with caramel-colored cows, clear placid turquoise-blue waters, and those majestic Alps surrounding the entire countryside. I have never seen a place that was so environmentally conscious either. Recycling is huge here and residents recycle every type of colored glass, paper, cartons, cans, even food scraps. We could all learn a thing or two from a country that takes such great care with planet Earth. ... no wonder the water is so clear and refreshing!


Here we go -
Our first adventure was a wonderful 3-hour (*assisted) bike tour with Flying Wheels in Interlaken. 


Miriam is a fantastic guide, touring us about and sharing her love for this idyllic valley. We rode past dairy farms where fresh milk and/or cheese was available for tasting (and purchase too!) The most darling little baby cows were resting comfortably near the roadside and we just had to stop and visit them.


Take a peek at one of the houses we passed by on our bike ride. The small courtyard was surrounded by homes built more than a hundred years ago. Isn't this one incredible? I absolutely loved it.

 
We rolled past several cemeteries and had to stop at each and every one. I just had to check and see if any Michlig's or Baumann's were buried nearby. The cemeteries were some of the most beautiful I have ever seen. Gravesites were lovingly decorated and planted with flowers, bushes, and small trees.
 




You too can enjoy this incredible biking adventure. Oh, and the e-motion bikes are a big help when you're chugging up those rolling hills. Check out Flying Wheels at www.flyingwheels.ch and ask for Miriam. She's a hoot-and-a-half!

Strolling through the cozy downtown of Interlaken, we wandered past little shops, restaurants, parks, all surrounded by mountains that seemed to reach into the heavens. My favorite thing about this trip was my daily chocolate. Interlaken did not disappoint with Laderach Suisse Chocolate. Located right on the main street, this chocolate was positively delightful. We grabbed a sample bag of 10 different varieties and weren't disappointed with a one. You can enjoy these chocolate delights by visiting them at www.laederach.com. My fave was the dark chocolate orange-almond. Try them pronto.

P.S. There is only one printed German. One. :)

Our day in Interlaken continued as we drove to the Trummelbach Waterfalls in the Valley of the 72 Waterfalls. Can you even imagine a valley with 72 waterfalls??



The Trummelbach Falls are the world's only glacier waterfalls accessible underground by elevator, tunnels, stairs, and a walking path. Glacial water from the Jungfrau is carried down to the valley over 20,000 tons of boulders, and my goodness the roar inside was incredible. We stopped into a little bitty coffee shop just outside the falls and had a lovely cup of cocoa. The vibe was hip and casual. Sorry I can't remember the name, but if you're heading out of the falls, it'll be on your left. You won't wanna miss it.

Next day was a trip to Montreaux and the Castle of Chillon. A self-guided tour wanders visitors through several centuries of construction, alterations, excavations, and medieval architecture.



Situated on a rocky island, Chillon was strategically and naturally protected from enemies dating back to the 12th century. Montreaux is a lovely city with tributes to the jazz greats as well. You can learn more about the Chateau de Chillon at www.chillon.ch and if you want to visit Montreaux look at www.montreaux.ch.

After we visited the castle, we headed over to the city of Gruyere. Yep, Gruyere - like the cheese. This walled city sits high atop a mountain with a stunning view of the valley below. We had a very enjoyable fondue lunch here and met some new friends from Poland. Check them out popping into our photo below.



As we strolled back to the parking lot we met a new friend... isn't he grand??



Further down the road we hit up Maison Cailler for their tour and sampling. Chocolate every day, seriously! The tour here is a bit kitschy but inventive and informative.

 
And... the tour ends with an all-you-can-sample chocolate buffet.


Picture the scent and sight of trays of creamy milk chocolates, bitter dark chocolates, flavorful white chocolates, truffles, and petit dessert chocolates. We sampled all around the room and about passed out from all the delicious-ness. I wouldn't have missed this for anything. You won't want to miss it either. Le Chocolaterie Suisse Cailler information can be found at www.cailler.ch.

Last stop on this particular day was the city of Lausanne. Lausanne is very close by so we stopped to check it out and grab a bite to eat. As we were wandering, we passed by a gorgeous church and heard the most beautiful music coming from within. We peeked through the doors and were invited inside to listen to a youth choir practicing for a next-day performance. Their angelic voices combined with the acoustics of this old church were absolutely glorious. I don't know why I don't write everything down, but I can't remember the name of this old church. We stopped into La Brasseurs in old-town Lausanne and had a perfect evening meal. The service was terrific and our waiter spoke a bit of English too. Magic.

 

Our next sight-seeing adventure took us to the little city of Annecy, France. It's fascinating to me that you can live in Switzerland and drive a few hours to France... or Italy... or Germany... fascinating. Annecy is a former walled city that is just darling today. Street performers, a lovely park, great views of the lake, a beautiful church, terrific ice cream, and meringues as big as your head!


Oh, and right on the main shopping street we saw an unusual vending machine.
Take a good look... 'cuz I guess you never know when you might need a little "protection."



If you're thinking of making a visit to Annecy, check out www.en.lac-annecy.com for more information.

Ah... next day we are on a leisurely 2.5 hour drive to the city of Lyon, France. Can't even begin to explain how much fun we had playing 'name that tune' with our friends. You never get too old for car games I guess. Anybody out there familiar with "I Want You to Want Me" by Cheap Trick? Yep, us too.

We arrived in Lyon under cloudy skies but that didn't hamper our travels. It feels a little bit like Paris' little sister here. A bit less crowded, with great shopping and dining. I loved it.

We visited several absolutely gorgeous churches. Overlooking the city of Lyon, the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere was brilliant. You can make the trek on foot, but we choose the super-inexpensive trip on the funicular. Who doesn't love a funicular?? A small chapel was built on holy site in the 1100's, and work on the Basilica itself was begun in the early 1800's. This picturesque church has been spared throughout history and occupation of Lyon. Lucky for us because it truly was one of the prettiest churches I have ever seen. We loved the incredibly diverse architecture, inspired tile-work, and richly-designed religious sculptures throughout. Every inch of this church has been lovingly cared for and maintained.




The Basilica has a website of its very own at www.fourviere.org. If you decide to make a visit, be sure to go downstairs too. Such a surprise.

We stayed at the Hotel de Celestins on the rue des Archers. What a darling little place. We climbed up three flights of stairs to our rooms. The room was everything we needed and the hotel staff was uber-friendly. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend a stay here. Clean, affordable, and centrally located. Check them out at www.hotelcelestins.com. Thank goodness Ann chose this little spot because the shopping around our hotel was fabulous. Gorgeous designer dresses, shoes, and a great wine shop around the corner. Can't beat that.

Oh, and the food.... our dinner at the Bouchon Lyonnais of Daniel & Denise was truly TRULY one of the best meals we have ever had. French deliciousness at its very best, but tough for English speakers. The place was packed on a Thursday evening. Everybody was enjoying themselves here and the waiters were hustling. The foie gras started us off in its escalope of mushroom and cornmeal. Moaning with delight here. My entrée was the mixed trio of fish and each piece was delicate and cooked with panache. The hearty brown bread was warm and fresh too. Hubby's entrée was a rib and cheek casserole that was tender and delicious. And everything was served in Le Creuset - imagine that. Ann had the white fish with a simple beurre blanc and John had a sausage dinner. The shared plate of Lyonnaise potatoes were crispy thin slices - just the way a good french fry should be. But the macaroni and cheese (OMG) with white crème sauce was absolutely unbelievable. I could've eaten a bucket-full. We did have to ask for water a few times and the language barrier is partly to blame. I gotta learn me some French if I'm going back. Dessert #1 was a black currant sorbet with cassis. It was sweet and tangy and refreshing. Dessert #2 was a sweet crème brulee with a perfectly burnt brulee. We didn't leave a bit of it behind.



Make a reservation - you'll be glad you did. E-mail them at danieletdenise.saintjean@gmail.com.

We prided ourselves on finding a different piece of chocolate each and every day of our trip. The last chocolate of the trip was found at a little artisan chocolatier named Tristan. Tristan is located in Bougy-Villars and I kid you not - it was the BEST chocolate of the trip. This little teeny tiny store with fresh samples and bags and boxes and assortments all around. Just the kind of place I love to pop into. Too bad there isn't one here in Arizona.... probably just as well.

Our last day found us in Geneva wandering about and visiting churches, peeking into shop windows, and grabbing a bit of lunch. We stopped into the Restaurant Le Flore Pizzeria on the Rue de la Fontaine and had the most amazing dining experience. Our waiter, Jose from Portugal, was the friendliest waiter in all of Switzerland. The pizzas (regina and diable) were cooked to order perfection, as was the lasagna. I had a salad masterpiece as well and we couldn't have been happier.
Of course we had a beverage and this time my beer came with a little grenadine in it. De-lish.

I couldn't have planned this trip any better than my friend Ann-Marie.
Thanks so much - love to you and John both!!!

Beer & Chocolate & Flowers Every Day!!
:) Deb


Oh - wait, I almost forgot to share my friend, Bessie. We got off the road more traveled and found this lovely lady. I had to take a snap of her and share her with you all. "Cow is King!"


Friday, May 10, 2013

Canals, Tulips, and History ... Amsterdam!

Where do I begin? Amsterdam has been on my to-do list for quite awhile now. Our friends are living in Switzerland for two years and invited us over for a visit. Thanks John & Ann! So we decided to go over a week early and visit this gorgeous historical city.


We were so excited to visit Amsterdam during the season of tulips, April to be exact. This city is well-known for its flower gardens, and let me tell you - they are everywhere in the spring. You can't walk past a store front or doorway without seeing these gorgeous blooms. This city is very walkable, mostly bike-able actually, with red paved bike lanes and quick cyclists around every turn. The cobblestoned streets are charming and the houseboats on the canals are marvelous. Amsterdam is dog-friendly with adorable dachshunds, spaniels, and terriers making up the bulk of dogs we saw out and about. Many of the coffee houses had a kitty-cat wandering in and out of their entryways, justifiably doing their jobs I would imagine.

We stayed in a remarkable one-room B & B called Amphora Bed & Breakfast. At 40 square meters, it's comfy-cozy but has absolutely everything you could possibly need and let me tell you - the Dutch don't waste any space. It's ideally located in the artsy Jordaan neighborhood on the Lijnbaansgracht canal. We were within walking distance to just about everything we wanted to see and the weather couldn't have been better. Our hosts, Greete Weitenberg & Niels Tans made us feel so comfortable during our visit, delivering a healthy basket of goodies to our doorway every other night. Greete is a mosaic artist and has lovingly decorated the bathrooms and kitchen of this perky little respite. I can't imagine staying anywhere else in Amsterdam!

Check out their website at www.amphora-bedandbreakfast.com to see exactly what I mean. 

Oh, and stop into Amphora Art at Vinkenstraat 71 to see some gorgeous pieces. We viewed an excellent photography exhibit by Renee Klein Fotografie while we were there. Her take on 365 days of Amsterdam was quite good. If you want to see her work, check out www.reneeklein.nl.

What did we do in Amsterdam? Let me share our touristy fun with you...

Keukenhof Gardens - About 45 minutes out of town via car or bus and I highly recommend a 5-hour bus tour. This includes driving time each way. We booked through Viator/Lindbergh Tour & Travel for 40 euros per person and were very happy with the service. And the gardens... oh my goodness! They were absolutely gorgeous. Tulips, iris, hyacinth, orchids, daffodils, crocus, greenhouses, garden sculptures, a windmill, and more. This 32-hectare gardens are a must-see for those visiting Holland between March 20th and May 20th each year.






See more at www.keukenhof.nl and you'll find tour info at  www.viator.com too.

Grey Line Canal Tour - jump onboard this or any other canal tour near the Damrak and you'll enjoy seeing the city from a covered canal boat. This is tourism at its finest as you float through the canals of Amsterdam viewing historic architecture, quaint and colorful neighborhoods, and houseboats galore. Grey Line offers headphones with your one-hour city tour in 20 different languages which is pretty helpful for travelers. We hopped off our bus tour and right onto the canal cruise. Perfect!




The Hermitage Amsterdam - We stopped in here to see the displaced collection of Van Gogh works while the Van Gogh Museum was being refurbished. The Hermitage Amsterdam is an arm of the famous Hermitage in St. Petersburg. I cannot vouch for what the Hermitage holds at any other time, but can say that the Van Gogh pieces were as bold and colorful in person as I had hoped they would be. The building itself is an old gorgeous brick fixture in the heart of the city. Check out their website for future exhibitions at www.hermitage.nl for more information. And if you'd like to see Van Gogh at his finest, check out the Van Gogh Museum at www.vangoghmuseum.nl.
 
Rijks Museum - One of the most spectacular art museums housing some of the world's finest art. You'll discover magnificent Dutch works and the popular 'Night Watch' by Rembrandt. There are many articles out there identifying whether or not these works are touched-up. But, you cannot miss the true majesty of the works you will find here in this museum, especially those by Rembrandt. Check out the Rijks Museum at www.rijksmuseum.nl and you'll see what I mean.
 
 
 
Anne Frank House - This unique museum tells the story of Anne Frank and her family's hiding place during World War Two. You'll find quotations from Anne's diary, photographs, filmed interviews, and artifacts from her short life. This place is such a loving tribute made available through the fortitude of her father, Otto Frank. It is an easy-to-follow self-guided walking tour (be forewarned though there are steep staircases.) The outdoor queue can get quite long but it is well worth the wait. I do recommend you go early if you hate standing in line. This was probably my favorite museum in all of Amsterdam as it was so reflective and the contents are so impeccably preserved. The website for the Anne Frank House can be found at www.annefrank.org. By the way, if you haven't read her diary - get busy.
 
The Jewish Quarter - We visited the Dutch Resistance Museum that holds extremely important artifacts, newspaper relics, and information portraying the Dutch resistance of Nazi occupation during World War Two. Story boards also share the occupation of Indonesia during the 1940's and 1950's. This smallish museum is easy to visit and wander through but you must bring cash or a chipcard. Check out www.dutchresistancemuseum.org for details. Next up we walked to the Jewish Cultural/Historical Museum and Portugese Synagogue. These buildings house a grand collection of Jewish memorabilia and religious artifacts, along with informational videos that describe and explain certain rituals and of the Jewish faith. The audio tour was thoughtful and most interesting!
 
Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art - If you are into Modern Art, stop into the Stedelijk Museum in the Museum Plein. We wandered the well-designed museum decade to decade in search of something to love and discovered that we are definitely not modern art fans. Sorry about that. But, I did enjoy the works by Chagall and Picasso. And I really loved the recreation of 'The Beanery' by Edward Kienholz. This almost-life-sized bar has great detail and viewing it one person at a time was both creepy and surreal. Modern art lovers - check out www.stedelijk.nl and enjoy...
 
Mike's Bike Tour - Mike's offers several different tours of the city or countryside and we chose the countryside. Our guide, Karl, took us out of the crowded streets of Amsterdam and into the country through lovely parks and past an old windmill.
 
 
We visited a clog and cheese farm where we sampled cheese and bought a few rounds home to share with our family. This tour was a great introduction to the art of riding bikes in Amsterdam, along with a lively narration of life outside the city. We loved it! Check out Mike's Bikes at www.mikesbiketoursamsterdam.com and you'll see why the Dutch enjoy their bikes so very much. Oh, and no helmets either!!
 
Check out this family bike and a sample of the bikes parked all over the city. We heard from Karl that there are 1.5 bikes to every 1.0 persons in Amsterdam. I believe it!
 

 
 
There really is so much to see in Amsterdam. We visited lovely old churches of every faith, shopped in the Nine Streets Area and stopped into several tasty old coffee shops (beer pubs to you Brits.) You can find beer on every corner of every street and hashish too if that's what you're looking for. I can't vouch for that either, as we only sampled the beer. We wandered through the Jewish Flea Market in the Jewish Quarter, and the Saturday morning Biologische Noordermarket in the Jordaan neighborhood.
 
 
We sampled Dutch pancakes ...
 
 
Italian food and Japanese cuisine too. Amsterdam is an international marketplace of delightful tastes and treats. Cheese too.
 
 
There are loads of city sculptures, and tours of every kind. You can visit the Red Light District if you choose, but I found it to be incredibly sad and skeezy. We snacked all over the city and ate whenever we felt like it. If you visit, you can NOT miss out on the delicacy that is supremely tasty and a bit interesting... French fries with mayonnaise sauce. Yep - hot, crispy fries with this sauce drizzled all over the fries.. yum! You'll find these little places everywhere in Amsterdam.
 


 
The tulips were gorgeous, the people were friendly, the cheese was fresh, the chocolate was dark and bittersweet, while the beer was cold and refreshing. But my very favorite thing of all in Amsterdam was the hot cocoa. I don't know what kind of chocolate is in their cocoa, but it was better than anything I've ever tasted. Even better than the hot cocoa in Dublin, and that's saying a lot! We sampled it at the Starbucks concept store on the Rembrandt Plein and couldn't believe how good it was. I had to go back again, and again, and again. If you figure out what kind of cocoa they use, please let me know. I came home and tried some of what we have here and it couldn't compare even a little bit.
 
 
Thanks for sharing my travels with me.


 

 
I'll be sharing our Switzerland visit with you next time.
Biking Everywhere Now...
 
:) Deb